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| Head School by Darryl
Nelson, April 2000 courtesy of NRBA |
Wow! What an exciting weekend.
First off, I have to say that Darryl is a fine teacher
and demonstrator, besides being a fine gentleman.
Thanks to Dan’l Moore for the use of his shop and all he did to make the class
run smooth.
The following will be my notes taken during the class.
| The first demo was of a GENERIC
DRAGON:
You Need:
l. Start out with a 5/8” square bar 18-20” long, as you’ll do a
head on both ends and won't have to use tongs.
2. You'll need:
a) an “eye punch”—as Darryl said: “any one would work because ‘Who’s
ever seen a dragon’s eye?’”;
b) a pointed punch for nostrils;
c) a slightly curved 1/4” chisel for making scales, and
d) a straight thin cutting chisel for the mouth.
Do It:
3. Heat the very end (approximately 1”) of the bar
and upset it to about 3/4” to 7/8”.
4. Heat up the bar about 3/4” behind the upset and indent it on
the edge on the near edge of the anvil holding the bar at
45 degrees to the edge of the anvil.
5. Punch the nostrils in the upper outer quadrant with a pointed punch
and it will flare the nostrils (make them deep and drift them
where you want them) One heat if possible.
6. Another heat and set the eyes where the previous corners of the
bar were before you smashed these corners down.
7. Cut the mouth with a straight chisel.
NOW YOU HAVE A GENERIC DRAGON — Wow! what a rush. Like I said, Darryl
made it look easy.
Non-Generic Extras:
8. Split the mouth open, cut a second line just 1/16th” above mouth
line on upper jaw and then cut in some teeth.
9. Curl bottom jaw and you have a bottle opener (in remembrance of
the good old days).
10. Cut in some scales with the little curved chisel.
|


|
| DRAGON HEAD WITH EARS AND TONGUE:
1. 5/8” square bar again shaped to a three sided taper 5/8”long.
2. Step the taper down on the near side of the anvil.
3. Use a spring fuller and then a fuller punch to countersink and square
up the resulting shoulder (this separates the tongue mass
to be drawn out).
4. As above use the near side of anvil to set the eyes sockets on
the diagonal.
5. Cut the ears from the corners longer than necessary because they
get shorter.
6. Punch the eyes, add scales with the curved chisel.
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NRBA News Fall 2000
Page 22
By the time we finished the Dragon Heads, I
was pumped! I knew that this was the class I’d been waiting for.
A few years earlier, Darlene, Ray, and I had seen Darryl’s work, again at Dan’l’s
shop, and Darryl had
remarked that he did a head a day for a full year. I tried that for a long time
but never really got the feel for it
and this class opened the doors to many steps I needed for better heads.
| THE GENERIC RAMS HEAD
1. Make a 3” taper on the end of a 5/8” bar (1/4”square
on tip)
2. Hot split and open up making two horns.
3. Pull horns back together to prevent damage for next step.
4. Fold 5/8” back on itself to make the head (over edge of anvil)
5. Upset and chamfer end of snout. Hammer and shape head.
6. Add eyes and nostrils
7. Use a bending fork to bend head down to make a neck.
(horns were bent and quenched to fit in bending fork without damage).
8. Bend horns to your liking and you have it.
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|
| MORE DETAILED RAMS HEAD
1. Complete steps 1 through 5 above—then while the horns are still
out of the way,
6. Set the eye sockets on the near side of the anvil.
7. Upset nostrils.
8 Using a spring fuller, chamfer along the side of the eye sockets
(not too deep)
9. Using fullering punches: curved—knock off the sharp edges around eyes
muzzle, and eyes; and straight for the eyelids etc.
10. The horns are the last to shape, after having bent and cooled the
neck.
|

|
The most exciting for me was the fullering
of the eyes and forehead and seeing how you can define everything.
| Bear Head
1. Start with 5/8” or bigger square bar. Do a
three sided taper to 3/8” square on the tip.
2. Do a step off on near side of anvil and round off the corner a bit.
3. Develop eye sockets on edge of anvil Fuller with
3/8 spring fuller just ahead of eye sockets Round
and draw nose and upset it a little; leave bottom a little longer
if open mouth is planned.
4. Use 3/16th fuller and set eye front to side
5. Use a flat fuller to develop ears above eyes, center punch a little and
then
round to shape and drive ear back.
6. Use 3/16th fuller to develop jaw line and for it forward for cutting
hair into.
7. Split mouth open with curved chisel (convex up) leaving plenty of
lower jaw for teeth & lower lip. Cut mouth and nostrils
in one heat if possible.
8. Use chisel to cut lip line, side set to bump up iron for a row of teeth
and roll the lip down a little.
9. Open mouth , cut a lengthwise shallow groove down middle of tongue and
cut tongue with small curved chisel (convex down)
8. Use eye punch to set eyes, use chisel to cut teeth and fuller to draw
teeth longer and to shape.
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Hopefully with lots of practice, we’ll be able to
come up with a nice Bear Head. Practice; Don’t give up;
Keep the iron hot and have fun,
Steve & Darlene Reum
Ray Stoffel
Trailhead Forge-Ronan MT
NRBA News Fall 2000
Page 23
NRBA News Fall 2000
Page 24
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